This Patagonia Puma Tracking Trip Is a Safari Unlike Any Other | Travel News
The bones are an image that couldn’t be forgotten. Ribs, spines, skulls, and femurs—stripped bare and bleached as white as the snow glinting on the distant peaks of Torres del Paine. In Patagonia, an endless cycle of life and death plays out daily, one almost incomprehensible to modern human existence. The guanaco, a wild relative of the llama, must graze among the skeletal remains of its kind. Yet, even this act is fraught with danger, as nearby, hidden in the grass or brambles, might lie the predator that draws people to the edge of the world—the apex predator of the Andes: the puma.
While pumas are often considered nuisances in the United States and lack the tourist appeal of grizzlies, bison, or wolves, they are celebrated in Chilean Patagonia. Photographers from around the world spend significant sums for a chance to capture these solitary big cats on camera, and documentaries have even turned some of Patagonia’s pumas into household names. A recent autumn visit to Torres del Paine provided an unforgettable opportunity to track and observe these magnificent creatures, sometimes at close range.
The journey included two and a half days tracking one of the most regal animals in the Americas, followed by a day and a half enjoying the activities available at Torres del Paine Explora Lodge, one of the most iconic hotels in the world. The experience concluded with two nights in Santiago at The Singular, a luxury hotel located in the bohemian Lastarria neighborhood, offering stunning rooftop views of the city.
Torres del Paine National Park, named for its iconic mountain towers, offers endless opportunities for exploration and wildlife encounters. The closest airport, Puerto Natales, is a scenic two-hour drive from the park, though its morning flights from Santiago make same-day connections challenging. Another option is flying into Punta Arenas, which, while requiring a longer drive across the Patagonian steppes—a landscape reminiscent of eastern Colorado and western Nebraska—provides its own rugged charm.
Puma safaris are similar to traditional overland safaris. Early mornings, an hour before sunrise, begin with meeting the guide and heading out. To reach the areas where pumas are most frequently spotted, the drive often winds through foothills and along lakes, racing against the sunrise to catch the pumas in action. The goal is to observe them prowling, hunting, or moving—activities that often cease with the arrival of full daylight. Yet, as with any wildlife encounter, there are no guarantees. Unlike African safaris, where a diversity of animals mitigates potential disappointment, puma safaris resemble tiger safaris, where success hinges on spotting a single elusive species.
Luck can play a significant role. On one morning, a puma was spotted perched on a rise only 30 feet away. Another puma, named Blinka, was observed nearby. This remarkable cat, tawny in color, had overcome significant challenges. She lost an eye to an attack by an older male at just three months old, broke her leg while raising two cubs, and was missing a tooth. Despite these adversities, Blinka thrived and was a marvel to behold.
That day, seven pumas were spotted, including Daniela, a photogenic feline nicknamed "the Norma Desmond of the cats." The experience included moments of trailing these majestic creatures on foot, capturing fleeting glimpses as they moved gracefully through their territory.
Throughout the safari, moments of waiting—whether crouched near a resting puma or scanning rocky hillocks for camouflaged cats—provided opportunities to learn about these creatures. The pumas of Patagonia, some of the largest in their species, rely heavily on guanacos, the region’s primary prey. Despite the prevalence of guanacos, they remain challenging targets due to their sharp eyesight and organized sentinels, which serve as early warning systems against predators.
After days of thrilling encounters with pumas, the remainder of the trip was dedicated to exploring the park’s rich outdoor offerings. Signature hikes, including the trek to the base of the Torres, showcased the breathtaking natural beauty of the region. Luck struck again during this hike, as the clouds cleared to reveal an unobstructed view of the iconic peaks—a perfect conclusion to an extraordinary journey.
