Thirty seconds. That was all it took for Chris Schalkx to come face-to-face with his first Galápagos resident after stepping off the plane at Seymour Ecological Airport. A land iguana, endemic to the region, lounged in the arrivals terminal with its rough, scaly skin draped over its bones and an expression that only a mother could love.
It turned out to be a fitting introduction to an expedition through the eastern Galápagos Islands aboard the Galápagos Explorer, a newly launched expedition yacht. As the brand’s first cruise venture—joining its collection of luxury lodges in Africa, Chile, and Bhutan—it was a bold move. However, for CEO Joss Kent, it felt like a natural progression. “We've always been interested in gaining a foothold in the Galápagos,” he explained. “Each island is uniquely different, so you need to cover a broad area to truly grasp the region’s diversity. Our guests wake up in a new destination every day.”
That diversity became clear the following morning upon landing at San Cristóbal Island. Despite having traveled just a few hours overnight from North Seymour’s rust-red, palo-santo-dotted terrain, the new setting seemed like an entirely different world. Towering tuff cliffs loomed like layers of cake, while a rugged path twisted through the barren hills. As sea lions bickered nearby, the group’s guide, local naturalist Daniel Sánchez, described the geological forces that had shaped the archipelago—tectonic activity over a volcanic hotspot, erosion, and oceanic currents—all of which had influenced the ecosystems that fascinated Charles Darwin when he arrived in 1835.
The islands indeed seemed to produce nature’s oddities. Along the way, vibrant red- and blue-footed boobies appeared, and on Española Island, marine iguanas with patchy red-and-green skin clustered together like oversized Christmas sweaters. Minutes later, an enormous albatross nearly crash-landed at Schalkx’s feet—an event that, Sánchez later reassured, accounts for only a tiny fraction of albatross fatalities. Even stranger creatures awaited on Bartolomé Island, where Galápagos penguins and sea lions swam alongside snorkelers. In the highlands of Santa Cruz, giant tortoises grazed lazily, moving at the pace of a century-old being, puffing with each bite.
Considering their long lifespans, one could only wonder how much change these ancient reptiles had witnessed. While 97% of the Galápagos have been under National Park protection since 1959, challenges remain. A single invasive rat or a crop-destroying snail can threaten an entire species, while human activities like fishing, farming, and growing tourism put pressure on delicate ecosystems, endangering species such as the scalloped hammerhead shark and the pink land iguana.
Unlike larger 100-passenger vessels seen passing through, the Galápagos Explorer accommodates only 12 guests in six spacious cabins adorned with vintage maps and scientific wildlife illustrations. This smaller scale allows for an industry-leading guide-to-guest ratio of one to six, ensuring a more intimate experience.
“We’ll conduct a full needs analysis of the areas and communities we impact,” Kent noted. Current conservation efforts include the Galápagos Whale Shark Project, support for the Pescado Azul Women’s Association (which promotes artisanal fishing), and the expansion of the company’s maritime conservation initiative, Oceans Without Borders, into South America. Additionally, the team has identified a site on Santa Cruz for indigenous tree planting to help restore ecosystems, prevent soil erosion, and offset the yacht’s carbon footprint.
A running joke among the crew was that they were all “endemic” to the Galápagos. From chef Adrian Segura, who prepared local delicacies like empanadas and seco de pollo, to bartender Adrián Tenorio, who never failed to serve a post-hot-tub piña colada, everyone on board took pride in their island heritage.
Back at the airport, a familiar face reappeared in the lounge: a land iguana, possibly the same one from before, strolled in as if it had a boarding pass. It clambered onto a rattan sofa before slipping into the ladies' restroom. Moments later, a security guard emerged, wrestling the defiant reptile. The iguana thrashed and hissed—a vivid reminder of the ongoing push-and-pull between humans and nature. A perfectly fitting farewell from the Galápagos.